Sleeping Bags--storage and cleaning

Storage

So your sleeping bag comes with a stuff sack. It seems like it should make it easy to slide it into the closet and keep it clean for the next trip, right?

Well, turns out, to get the maximum life out of your sleeping bag, store it loosely, after you have aired it out and it's dry. This goes for a down or a synthetic sleeping bag. This doesn't mean you have to take up a whole closet for your bag. You can:

• Use a large pillow case, if the bag fits loosely inside, and hang it in the closet.
• Hang it loosely in a closet or storage room.
• Fold it loosely on a closet shelf.
• Purchase a loose fitting cotton stuff sack from a sporting goods or camping store that will not compress the bag.

Care

I always air out my sleeping bags after a camping trip. Some people air them out every day of their camping trip. But when it comes to washing, once a year or less, unless I've soiled it heavily or had a serious spill.

Washing your bag too often will wear it out more quickly.

Avoid the home washing machine and take it to a front-loading commercial washer at the laundromat. Read the tagged cleaning instructions (unless you've cut them off).

1. Unless otherwise directed by the manufacturer, use liquid detergent.
2. Use a gentle stain remover, like Shout, before you wash.
3. Cold water!
4. Slightly less detergent works best.
5. Zip the zipper closed.
6. No dry cleaning! Too many horror stories about melting bags and toxic fumes. Dry cleaning will ruin Gore-Tex. Dry cleaning removes the natural oil from the downy feathers.
7. If you are concerned about your down bags, wash them on gentle or by hand with a down soap product, Ivory or Woolite, but rinse really well to get all the soap out. Soap causes clumping of the feathers or synthetics.
8. Never a HOT drier! If you are sure it will stay warm, okay. Otherwise take it home and hang it up to dry on the patio, porch or in the garage. In the drier with a down bag, throw a clean tennis shoe or several tennis balls to help fluff it up. If you hang a down sleeping bag to dry, you can still fluff it up in the drier with a shoe, but use the air-only cycle.

Sleeping Bags--Zippers

You keep hearing, "Check out the zipper. Make sure it's good!" But what does that mean? Okay, it zips. Now what?

Before you purchase your sleeping bag, test drive it but crawling inside and work the zipper up and down several times. You certainly don't want to get stuck in there!

• A heavy duty oversized zipper, made of thicker, stronger teeth, work best. They may cost a little more, but they work more easily and get caught less. Even when they do get caught, they are more easily fixed.
• A two-way zipper may also cost a little more, but really pay off if your feet need to cool off. With a two-way zipper you can unzip from either end and let some cool air in.
• A zipper stiffener sits along side or is built into the zipper fabric to keep the zipper from curling and waving. The stiffener will reduce catching and increase the speed and ease of the zipper.
• A draft tube should run the length of the zipper and should be insulated for warmer bags to keep the cold air out.
• Nylon zippers are warmer than metal zippers and are not likely to tear a hole in the fabric if they get stuck.
• If you want to zip two sleeping bags together, be sure the zippers work together before you buy.

Okay, now follow the rules and enjoy the feel of that quality two-way zipper.

Sleeping Bags--shapes and sizes

Square bags, mummy bags, double bags . . . "Which one is right for me?" Yes, sleeping bags come in different shapes and, also, different sizes. You want to remember that comfort and warmth depend on having enough room, but not so much that your body can't heat up the inside. You want to be able to stretch out comfortably with a little room left at the bottom. Too much room, and your feet will remain cold.

Let's take a look at size:

• Regular: up to 5' 8" (68 inches)
• Large: up to 6' 2" (74 inches)
• Extra Large: up to about 6' 6" (78 inches)

These are the common, sizes, but with people growing taller, more companies are taking that into consideration and should list the heights.

Just like test driving before buying, crawl in the bag before you buy! It may be hot out, but zip it up and check for comfort. Make sure you can move around, sit up, turn and zip or unzip it. Then check out how easily it rolls up and compresses.

Shape

• Mummy bags do create a picture, don't they? Well, you will have that mummy shape once you get wrapped up in one of these close-fitting sleeping bags. Very importantly, mummy bags save on weight, bulk, and most importantly keep you efficiently warm by retaining heat. Sometimes I am not sure whether my family are still sleeping or not until I see a nose poking out of the opening in the hood. A great bag for backpackers (especially those who cut off tags to save weight). Just remember, don't try to turn in the sleeping bag, but rather turn the whole bag like a cocoon. The bag becomes an extension of your body, so try it out before you buy to avoid potential claustrophobia.
• Semi-mummy bags are cut a little larger for those who want the mummy shape and all the heat, weight, and space saving qualities but just need a little more room.
• Rectangular bags remain my favorite family camping bag for summer weather. They can be zipped together for couples and give plenty of room and comfort. They weight a lot more, have more bulk, but we use them when those concerns don't matter. On cool nights, we simply throw on an extra blanket and wear a sweatshirt to bed.

Sleeping Bags--Synthetic, types, pros and cons

If you plan to risk wet gear on a canoe trip or rainy climate, or if you are on a budget, then synthetic sleeping bags should be a consideration.

Pros:

• Even while wet, synthetics retain up to 70% of body heat


• Less expensive than down. $100 will purchase a good all-around bag. $150 will purchase an excellent, long lasting sleeping bag


• Storing these bags loosely, not in the stuff bags, they can last for many years without breaking down.

Cons:

• Heavier than down. Your synthetic bag may weigh double what a down bag would weigh. For example, a down may weigh 3 lbs, where a comparable synthetic bag may weigh 5-6 lbs.


• Bulkier than down. In a camper, this may not be a consideration, but if you are backpacking or trying to fit everything in a small trunk, be aware of the difference in space. Down will compress at least 25% more.

Fills

• Hollofill: Inexpensive, for warm weather summer camping.


• Thinsulate: Not made for the dryer, usually found in shirts, jackets or boots, very warm.


• Polarguard: HV is durable but has low compression. 3D (newer) Warmer, more down-like soft, more durable than most synthetics.


• Quallofil: Short polyester fibers with seven chambers. Lighter and more compressible than most, but doesn't hold it's loft as well as newer materials.


• Primaloft: Down-like fiber, blending variaous diameters of polyester fibers. Water resistant and insulates well when wet. Very impressive.


• Micro-loft: Down-like fiber, lighweight, warm and supple. Keeps its loft and warmth even when wet. Very impressive.

Sleeping Bags--Down ups and downs

I can remember my father pulling out his ancient military sleeping bags for our camping trips. They were always green and filled with down feathers. Most of the time, even though I thought they were "flat" and wouldn't do the job, they always surprised me and kept me toast warm.

Let's look at the types of down which you can find on the label.

• Down-fill referes to the loft and has various ratings: good loft 550, better loft 650, and very lofty and fluffy 750.


• Goose down comes from geese, obviously. Geese live in colder areas and provide the best down: longer feathers and better insulating.


• Water fowl down usually consists of a mis of duck and goose plumes

Pros:

• Light, warm, and compressible, down gives a warmth that is easy to carry on the back and fit in a small space when stored.


• Down sleeping bags will last for 20 to 30 years if you take care of them.


• Down feels good. It's soft, light and very breathable, which you can't quite match with a synthetic.

Be sure to follow directions on care. A clean, aired out bag, stored properly could last a life time of camping.

Cons:

• Expensive! Down bags under $200 are not worth it.


• Don't get it wet! A wet down sleeping bag is a worthless sleeping bag. It dries out quickly, but that won't do if it's pouring rain, your bag is sopping wet, and it's 10 degrees Faherenheit with a wind.
  

Sleeping Bags--Stay warm with collar and draft tubes!

So, you have the right sleeping bag rating, but you are still getting cold. Is the cold coming through the zipper? Then you may have an issue with the draft tube.

The draft tube covers the zipper to insulate and retain heat inside the bag. A good draft tube will be more than just a flap of material. A good draft tube will be filled with insulating material, either synthetic or down. A good sleeping bag draft tube will be cover the entire zipper length.

A collar tube could make a huge difference in warmth. A collar tube provides an insulating tube across the chest to seal in the heat. This tube should fit around the shoulder to keep out the cold air.

Sleeping Bags--Which season rating is for me?

Four-Season? 3-Season? Summer? What do these ratings mean for me and my family?

Basically, the 4-season bag means just that...it should be good for all 4 seasons, which could happen in one day in some places! But a 4-season bag will be too hot for most folks in the summer time, unless it really cools off in the evening. On top of that, you can save some bucks by purchasing a 3-season or summer bag.

Your 3-season bag will serve you well if you plan to camp in all but the coldest areas or seasons. The 3-season bag, all purpose bag will take a fair amount of cold, but will still remain comfortable in warmer weather. 3-seasons refers to spring, summer and fall and can usually handle temperatures down to between 10 and 20 degrees Fahrenheit, so if a cool storm blows in, all is well. As a woman, I often bring an extra blanket to throw on top, just in case. On the other hand, if things heat up too warmly at night, sleep on top of the bag with perhaps a sheet covering.

Summer bags tend to be very light weight and the least expensive. The children tend to have these for sleepovers, but we don't take them camping unless we know we're camping in the warmest regions with warm evenings and nights.

How reliable are the ratings on sleeping bags? Some manufacturers are more careful than others. In general, count on a 10 degree fudge factor. My experience as been that the higher-end (pricier) manufacturers are also more careful with their ratings, and therefore more reliable. The shape, cut, length, and fill will make a huge difference, as well as tent vs cabin vs sleeping under the stars.